Our Poly Breeding Program for Racing Pigeons
 
There are several ways to get additional young from your special cocks. The facility you have available will pretty much determine the number of young you will be able to raise as well as the extra pairs you need to act as foster parents

SYSTEM 1
Let's say you have eight pairs of stock racing pigeons that you want to raise from your race team. When you mate them put four pairs together, wait 6 or 8 days then put the remaining four paris together. If you have all 8 hens the same color that’s best — if you have 4 BBs and 4 BCs — that works okay too. If you are really lucky the cock you are going to use as your “Poly Cock” does not care what color the hens are.

In this scenario you need at least 9 identical compartments. One for the cock and 8 for the mated pairs.

When the 1st 4 pairs have raised their babies to about 14 days or when the cock starts to call the hen — you remove the cock and the babies to a pen away from the hens. Leave the hens alone with their nest bowls in place for 2 or 3 days — By now you should have 4 hens alone.

Starting now you take the poly cock to the hens, only long enough for treading. If at first the hen does not accept the cock, move him to the next hen. After one or 2 trips — It usu-ally works. One or two hens AM the other two throughout the day.

Do not allow him to remain with any one hen longer than necessary you don’t want either to become attached.

Since the 2nd egg is fertilized 4 hours after the 1st egg is laid — you continue putting the poly cock with the hens only to the day they lay egg #1.

1 then remove and mark the first egg (eyebrow pencil works well) and replace it with a wooden egg.

The following morning, bring back the original cock and the babies. The cock will be very aggressive for a half hour or so but by the time the hen lays her second egg he will be ready to continue playing papa for your special cocks babies.

Now you can concentrate on the other 4 pair.

If you repeat the procedure once more you can have 16 babies from the original cocks and 32 from your “poly cock.” A great way to prove out a Special Cock while insuring yourself of 16 young from your stock pairs.

SYSTEM 2
This system requires 4 identical individuals + 1 for your Poly Cock.

You start by putting 4 hens (same color if possible) into the compartments, place nest bowls and shavings or whatever nesting material they are used to in each compartment.

On the 2nd day you bring the “poly cock” to hen #1 from 7: am to 9: am then to # 2 from 9: am to 12 noon, 4 3 noon till 4: pm and #4 from 4 pm till dusk.

Remove the cock to his own compartment for the night — repeat the procedure for the next 8 to 10 days — or until each hen lays her first egg.

When the 2nd egg is laid place under foster parents to hatch and raise.

Now — leave the cock in his compartment for 5 days and the hens in theirs — start the same routine and in about 3 weeks from the time you started you should have 16 eggs

You also need 8 pair of foster parents by week 3

Remove the original 4 hens and bring in 4 new ones, again try to match colors — go through the same procedure as before within 6 weeks you will have 32 eggs IF all goes well.
8 pair of foster parents will be needed.

After 2 rounds from set #2 bring back the first set of 4 and continue as before A total of 64 eggs in about 3 1/2 months or less.

January 1st to April 10th

I have found that about 25 pair of foster parents are needed to get through the pro-gram. Due to slow or fast laying etc.

SYSTEM 3
This is the system we use most of the time for our racing pigeons:

We have 55 identical compartments in our main breeding loft. Which is important to get the very most from our special cocks.

If we put hens into the compartments in early spring that have raised babies there last breeding season — Even with no cocks 8 out of 10 will start to lay within 2 weeks (unless the weather is very bad). The ones that show no interest in their nest we put their last years mate with them for 1 or 2 days — This usually works to wake them up — If not we replace them.

If you check each hen daily you are able to tell by their looks and actions when they are getting eggy.

When they are 4 or 5 days from their 1st egg we start putting the poly cock with them only long enough for treading — Remove him and put with him another hen. Again only long
enough to do his job.

I have had a few cocks that would go to as many as 5 hens in a row — most will go with 2 and some only one — wait an hour and more often than not you can get the 2nd hen bred etc.

If you have the right “Poly Cock” one that does not fall in love easily and one that does not fight the hen, you can get lots of babies with this system.

So if you have 10 or 15 hens and 15 pairs of foster parents its possible to get 20 to 30 eggs in two weeks from one cock. 85 to 95% will be fertile.

If the cock fights a hen take him out and put him in his own compartment until he settles down usually 1 hour will be enough.

Give him a spoonful of hemp/flax/safflower and he will be back to normal and ready for another hen.

If I have 15 hens — I try to line up the same colors in a row — today I take him to 6 or 8 blue bars and the next day to BCs.

One time every other day will usually be enough — If you screw up and don’t get him to a hen within 48 hours of her 1st egg you will miss the 1st but will have the 2nd fertile. Even when she is bred the day of the laying of the 1st egg.

AFTER THOUGHT
The surest way and easiest way is to let the hens raise one round with another cock. When the babies are 12 to 14 days old remove the cocks and babies to another loft. The hen will continue to lay every 10 to 12 days.

Put the Poly cock with them 2 or 3 times prior to 48 hours before their 1st egg and you can get 6 from each in a 6 week period.

A total of 8 eggs will not hurt a healthy hen — as long as Calcium/Minerals! Vitamins are available to them.

IF wavy eggs appear — take the hen away and put in fly pen for 2 or 3 weeks or even for the rest of the year.

MEDICATION & HEALTH
It is important to keep Calcium and minerals in front of the hens at all times and vita-mins 2 times each week along with 16/17% protein feed.

The cock is given a spoonful of hemp-flax— safflower, a few drops of Avitron twice weekly — we did this with the “Red Poot” 20 years old — the “Iron Horse” who is 20 and still fertiles every egg. His grandfather bred winners with 15 hens over a 21-year period. (His son in the yb races of this year won a 250 mi. combine race out front by 80 ypm for Tony Vandenberg).

When the breeding season is over and all birds are in the break-up fly pens and before the moult starts we medicate as follows:

1. 5 days with de Weerd’s B.S. for cocci/canker followed with 2 days vitamins, de Weerd or natural or Vitapreen. Most are pretty much the same. Garlic oil on the feed with brewers yeast is good once or twice weekly for feather quality — Also works with Sulmet/Emtryl. B.S. Same as Ridzol, Sulfamiazine, Vitamin and Dextrose.

2. 8 days with paratyphoid. De Weerd’s parastop — Baytril is the only known medi-cation to cure Carriers of Paratyphoid. But is very hard on the system and only to be used in severe cases) We have found when used on YBs we get 1 very good race and then they lose form and slow down very quickly. We always give vitamins or aci-dophilus or both. Acidophilus 1st, one day vitamins one day after medication

3. We treat days for any respiratory problems. De Weerd’s W.N. which is approximately 2 parts Aureomycin 1 part Terrimycin with dextrose and vitamins. C. T. C. is good — Tylan and garlic is good — other medicines?? 4 in 1 is also good. Again we follow up with 2 days of vitamins

4. Two days on de Weerd’s worm medicine (Wormco). Or 3 drops of Ivomec to each bird. (DeWeerd also sells bottles of 50 worm caps for individual treatment which can be used during race season with NO ill effects, given 4 or 5 days before the race) follow the treatment with 2 days vitamins. Best is to take droppings to a vet. NO WORMS NO MEDICATION



 
 
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